Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Gardens

Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel train arrives at a spray-painted stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the near-constant road noise. Commuters hurry past falling apart, ivy-draped garden fences as storm clouds form.

It is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established vineyard. But one local grower has managed to four dozen established plants heavy with plump mauve grapes on a rambling allotment situated between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of the city town centre.

"I've noticed people concealing heroin or other items in those bushes," says the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your grapevines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is not the only local vintner. He has pulled together a informal group of cultivators who make vintage from four hidden city grape gardens nestled in private yards and allotments throughout Bristol. It is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title yet, but the collective's messaging chat is named Grape Expectations.

Urban Vineyards Around the Globe

To date, the grower's allotment is the sole location listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which features more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of Paris's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and over three thousand vines overlooking and within the Italian city. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them throughout the world, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.

"Grape gardens help urban areas stay more eco-friendly and more diverse. They protect land from development by establishing long-term, productive farming plots within cities," explains the association's president.

Like all wines, those created in cities are a result of the soils the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the people who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine embodies the beauty, local spirit, environment and heritage of a city," notes the spokesperson.

Unknown Eastern European Grapes

Back in the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to gather the vines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the rain comes, then the birds may seize their chance to feast again. "This is the mystery Polish variety," he comments, as he cleans damaged and rotten berries from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and additional renowned French grapes – you don't have to spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Group Efforts Throughout Bristol

The other members of the collective are additionally making the most of bright periods between bursts of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden overlooking Bristol's shimmering harbour, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of wine from Europe and Spain, Katy Grant is harvesting her dark berries from about 50 plants. "I love the aroma of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she says, pausing with a container of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."

The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she returned to the UK from East Africa with her household in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the grapevines in the yard of their new home. "This plot has previously endured multiple proprietors," she explains. "I really like the concept of environmental care – of passing this on to future caretakers so they continue producing from this land."

Terraced Vineyards and Natural Winemaking

A short walk away, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than 150 vines situated on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the interwoven grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, the filmmaker, 60, is picking bunches of deep violet dark berries from lines of vines arranged along the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a documentary producer who has worked on streaming service's nature programming and television network's gardening shows, was motivated to cultivate vines after observing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for more than seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly create good, natural wine," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but in reality it's reviving an traditional method of making wine."

"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the natural microorganisms come off the surfaces into the juice," explains Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, pips and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced yeast."

Difficult Environments and Creative Approaches

In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to establish her vines, has gathered his companions to pick white wine varieties from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. The former teacher, a northern English physical education instructor who taught at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on annual sporting trips to France. However it is a difficult task to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce French-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers," says Reeve with amusement. "This variety is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."

"My goal was creating European-style vintages in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem faced by winegrowers. The gardener has had to erect a barrier on

Debra Morris
Debra Morris

A tech enthusiast and business strategist with over a decade of experience in digital transformation and innovation.